Not sure where I should put this, maybe here or maybe out at advrider. I took delivery of the TTR 250 that my brother has been learning on over the winter. It needs to be prepped for his first dual sport ride in the Hills this June. It would be nice to have some racks for the bike but no one makes any that fit the price range of the low buck bike. The guys over in the welding shop owe me a few favors since I helped them with the computers on their CNC machines. What do you think about building something with the infamous ammo cans? I could use some advice too, so should I post here or at Advrider?
I also forgot the tags to post images.
Pelican cases work well, you can find them used on ebay and others. And they're lighter. Great Buffalo might have a set looking for a new home. I have some but I don't remember how big they are.
sleddog might have some tips for making racks. I saw some pictures of his work (not sure if it was on here or advrider) and they looked factory.
OK, Let's give this a try.
Bringing the TTR back, looks great from a distance but not so good close up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hZ40Iw7ink-J92LrN-kX5cQcIV4xXwXww54ucIvZ6T50vrayKI6tnhx5b69HywZUy4HTdmv8zqLZbbpyY7c-aA5cyXCckmIpC7jA70hGudgr840h07NnPzxA-RbdOSZJBfjFRsugLmsaVsffste5UnYkBgdDe-rTBSalUBPrvtPa1ozYA8v6YYczgCRMkdxfVv5QIwTWt_UMcrVupM5ob6sl9qzYolQX4OKiISzTbx2SoFj5lo0m3Dsf_l2FYVdABZiUWDudGblOA2ciEnJdjXTVdIjuTZJR99nqYtFhPJFtRYOhNqqWM5cdELYJfsa1RnAn8QFjDFiQP9aUbYbZ6RVXVyBfFKDkoRp7tHNBBAj5jwjiVibmC0bbI14pvSfpv0-rub5bcqvtiTo7E28IodeRfiYVHkFCZsaD1OGl-TefdOWfXQMUOceWYO4K11GLaCQnRYbObxuBGWSphR3Iv9opzLpzy3QUeO1b5GgoJSkiATq4Tcb1TeXuDpja0APSHzmVV4pQ4RmgQE2ajLq4ns9q7jiw4vWdFZ4hieVgqVEmJaqiaL6YF8_DAPuCzaMBVwF0eg=w700)
Here's my cases.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F7oVrHpQHsPHJ30rZSTCZpb_JN1LyK2tp6jnsLKhF0JCyMRHZDOAb9c6IDpFzzDJWMFfGZX5ltCbTaJEfoN6Qd8oHYZ5OBqCi3geVYR-dgJ1QMFwGwj_N5A3XpO-5ayIBNs_9H9-gHOQc3xUTgwUfgs3pYYYIIvXj90ESQMxQfwm-2u8FJvz-ufoAd95ianx0Yq7zSyXTlRUOAuBvchevebx6gsONbqEjYmcolxpGzxbwBcXQUFs3YAvXZu0_s9EJyXN0RHILascAAnYatMioLmwA5tiCdI6zmtSAXaV7RAIefqMb44DESez6LMP0kDL6tGRThkf9WEMDGSTR5BmTsWXPcp0J0l8SN4I3_rTGeT2ZCTts6TGlaJBJmvk52nt40rh1MnJ1ZAAobDdpXxulmUXglQ2vGzVrZGj_-9rXQ32emW9EeTPunCMt9xI-llrTQRUlxBRGNZ9pSfo5IPKX9ongTkCJ-2uIYWgSEcpm1uLoe9dqX355yY2bU_pzQMGNw0L5Fg51wwJjTHwV_ottdJ8NtiZUbuVLy2YqDuWe2sxsk2e4hI71EvzTgepAhuiXE56Uw=w700)
20 mm ammo cans will be far too to heavy in my opinion. The smaller one are just too small. I would go with soft bags, personally, and just fasion a rack to keep them out of the spokes. Used soft bags can be had cheap on the used
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I didn't scroll down far enough to see those ammo cans, far differentvthan the ones I'm familier with. They look like they could be workable. What are the dimensions of those cases?
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The 25mm boxes are nearly square, somewhere around 14 x 14 1/2. Even though I'd run bolts through the sides, they'd be nearly weather proof. I do have a pair of soft bags from my Bandit that would probably touch the exhaust or get into the rear tire. They would also not be very easy to hose down after running through some mud. What I can't figure out is where I'm going to tie these boxes/panniers into the frame or subframe. There's just not much back there to bolt into.
Brad, I'd suggest to go with soft cases. Do like Jim suggested & have some racks made to keep them off of the exhaust etc. If your'e patient soft bags can be found pretty cheap.
Plus, ammo cans can only be used on KLR's along with a Walmart basket...............
Does the TTR have a metal sub-frame? If it doesn't, I think the only thing you can use is a softbag.
Quote from: Lonesome Dave on April 26, 2016, 05:35:27 PM
Does the TTR have a metal sub-frame? If it doesn't, I think the only thing you can use is a softbag.
I think it is steel, but the owner's manual claims a max load of 198 lbs. The manual popped up on google.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2006/lit-11626-19-30_1198.pdf (http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2006/lit-11626-19-30_1198.pdf)
The water-proof or water-resistant soft bags like giant loop and wolfman will rinse off mud pretty easily, but they're also probably a lot more money than you want to spend.
Uhmmm Boy that weight limit doesn't leave me much room for anything extra. I'd better make sure I go to the bathroom before I ride because I'm right at 198 most days. My brother is well north of that number so that dramatically changes my plans. Just for curiosity I set my soft cases from the B1200 on it just to see what they look like.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fK12oXq6rGbDpYqywEKdphR430AYyMhh_9p6U-RzBiBVc32rp84b5k-MVObh6ujQ6Pe8EYtdB-HDv1TL241pPyi6Varqqx5nonS1WLOzn4Y1VSQ9ttsW0h3w8P7bsijz5pHSrwNzNRDeor2evoQlZSUb_zsJOJPuKaKc81Ke-3zuW41joqHuc85NWecT8aqAkFVhTD-onzRCe6xq0C7WVMYBAKy3nvlzJv6CC3e5GJtz6M79YI8v847vXMJvk4SQ62UaMwtjB-sU-7k4oBYNO1RM4Roe8ZLeWk8zAyqa0z9g6DcHXD-N236IJodvCPOAGtr9HjNRob5ZFMytjXDhTJoMrPusKIjWtNyu_1UmuyiVRNkFrj7LnKLRig6jLfuC9z5K3GFJ9oL6v7q9FPyWfMpSGc425aqxI1M4dDXxWm5aVgR3BDcMq0YJhEAzFJCcVHCkbDHG6Qp8q7IxMmhDNxa1JOt72jN3Ip8GRlXAPOpdW6ihaolQSXgm_Nv8IwaWYQINJVQXNT2p0jTvZTN50uWR14EdcgOip5RdNpbp4Ckg_Vpt4r6HdMMLvudaf6HmwVKKIQ=w700)
This is with them in the position that I think they should be in, however the straps don't go under the seat and they would need a light frame to hold them away from the exhaust and out of the tire on the other side. So then with them slid forward over the side number plate. They wouldn't need a frame and the plastics as well as the seat would hold them into place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WCNy6SKQu5II6UeniW9n4OHrQMyj6AyFzllWbqWWRq_JL6dfIqBc1qlsfTvVnz6G1cyIiRxCYfVeBXrRdgTKZbN3fFbexTjRm0Sc15etg32xmHVTRbAdCcv_CqWl1T8WQI7zTZCaYOovo4smSnSWxCtuVDRGQ_BO0M6hG_MPPprB6W68olS53-ZK4YTiB7aMKRSoJv5Qu34yN_Wkk1-gQMqUP3cCfQJ-0yr1Bz45yqOI3wagMEU0BWHZGHGjyr6bmcY19b2sGjJ6asbK8ztHQMZXbDHoL5pKpLuEPyA_7R46Rr59rj46ncp_tXe0TTLlI_5kpJ5DGvl-EWf6Rriyv7L29JOiE_5t_jgDSR0_EZ9a1UJ14LIGmVUwL5ZPu_URvvL6mtneAabOkTCnVP6-cDxdl-wkxJHHPEecgQgTN5KAnlxlSg3m0fgdfz6CNFkAERg7Ot11W9cJ2Hvp6XBb2Ox3x_X4EsuTSvmj5APHL-JxSfN-7Mb8X6GJnHFze1h1S5h4dAjPGe3NPTXD0hF-WHDiwSJ4fk_m0gLbK2YaIj5oI7ZiUjJENXZSMyJ14q8cvpeXYA=w700)
Is this just a fools errand? Should we just not carry anything on that bike? I hoping that I'm able to find an equipped DRZ by June and there would be a rack on there for a bag and fuel.
I bought a set of h2o proof bags and welded up a small frame to keep them off the exhaust and side panels of the old klr. No options for my bike either.
It works great. Extra gal of gas too.
The only rack I could find for the ttr was the cycle rack on eBay. Maybe you could copy it.
The overseas TTR had a different subframe that I think was heavier wich allowed more rack options. As for the ability to carry weight I sold mine to a guy weighing 300 pounds and he loves it, think the Yamaha number is very conservative. Loved the TTR but gave up on it after trying to find some mods. Not much out there so most have to be home made.
You guys are the best! Keep the suggestions coming sleddog, ryani, Bogus Jim, sandhillrider, Lonesome Dave, and great buffalo!
I'm rethinking this whole idea of the side panniers and am leaning now towards what Sandhill suggested. Cyclerack is pretty well known for their racks and I first came across them in my research of TW200 options. Their design is probably ok, so long as it doesn't hold much for example a gas can and dry bag. My concern with the design of the Cyclerack is how it just loops under the bottom of the rear subframe, secured with a bolt on each side. Here's a pic from their website.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pt5QP6SQvPtwnIEliOlstzu_gbXKB1iAPAz--yOT3muvzpq4WabCTQ9ZJYd-ArwDLNVYncDb_5ASvj91BDfjc2GHwqUYBV4ve8EvrG6uaWVxxNg_Q_AzAvyOQaOKqfdN-ZpXA5dtOWQdpcJ0_2bnKnJMLPChxL6d-amLJDMRRxFIYDgyv4q1lCMAx_0FiZi7-AnckBpZ76WM8uVMZpSamwwbLBOMGgMM-9uuHu1YRqTX1lSBDnWiMXHIIPJ1rKUNFXIXAfzj0ynBNaDEC7DgDVpTjXxkM1brCDHS5cZ1AcemSH9yn4NbZHNn2uFF9D9Hx59wRtVWLuAxLsAyQJh12XFMg-K5wWky9DXJ0a0FNRjEWE1bKkBtdGETxAvzPKQN-oeqRSjtBBtSmCnEoW_ziRK_jhPBJapfb8P6JFj1csRcc9NvY9-C82am7HTX7AxTAxyxF-kc3sByqzYKaL977AxxZMEARx0CT2NmUkb5BAtV5G-0-cjAPDn8T--9MZf_A_555HSoL-fhMkf0CZ9tMCfRy-681LstyAPHo7QckJkBnFR0Ws7VP2ozu5MCURjbgUCtaQ=w514-h558-no)
So I think it would be better if it bolted directly to the frame instead of looping under it. Shouldn't I be able to make a bracket that connects here on the right side in the two holes above the rear brake? These spots are already threaded and I found two 10mm bolts for them. Probably a lock washer and some LocTite would be a good idea.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hS94jiVQB2luqSx589Etkxkoh4dDyoL6_YEGAqiLkq-4dzPKqVQwJbLqN6JTrl0vWsw_RAjvMBReClBWWGzhCsaFA2xb84hABuls0sHgDVRwean0UUDuKlHiMcOuSkk3B9btcWf13YYfp-6WB1_Gxu17bFxjBE8b5zlUHWKNHnrha-a1hKxwi9QIq-cqyVpRx8vLEmAP5keZn7Ed_h4flT-Zk6qV7dRcYo8_bBNUjQKyDFweW0IGtCdORr_ezD5pF6hRg_k7_IwTRzy8V57fx3Dzs3mR39FoPbfVrZXehUdmbJzNnBJlE5_Jl5M9-0JAC_oZzw24JckV0Do6MxKjMCBJ9uAVWKwR_K-KvCUU9z7eym_TuAMsQVVLNSzqUXnNgDkShNxYc4ZNF1v7pacHl13i7R41P4ARY3oKUP6A1swB49j6JpJXOxWeuHGUSGkN32_piaU1Wh0QzqeHTHXXBWOuegQCvcbMsjDVvevIS7lZSMkRXK0_S1wgbuUYEFj7JagcFkBftiWUkirEzUYjDXtmQJEjI760YjJygOk_n05weFx38Q-4Idd-gZk0ymioKcI_xQ=w700)
And then here on the left side where the chain roller guards are? Also, isn't the quick link on backwards in the pic?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mQcytuphU-RmVQZEKu-J9WT_-_slBkCQwtugRV9Gl2dJhMJYsROluLnXSA0k3oeyOr0qKWQWHvwY_pyUQw4vySQ6jQI_lpCD-5H0N9vHIeIJzV_VZ1JDQTRslsQLPbtNCHhH-nl32oJ2zTbWTqNPHp8fAn6fPkAMRyVyTT943uwnjfkbLYmK8AtVKsxlLd33lgegbqmxwaYoTyxdUM-4ts6v249Jq1zrlHfD43O91Dp70AwJGaN6VVzgRtVpqI_dTd_xCdqLpsw67Ct5NcVGjCvVkoAcrfipmxXoAV6fk7rsHUelofU4WYLI1ixLNQr4KIq-LGW4CToUWW9FDiR_QcttHO1kKuRocTN-5Xb7H9HTsplAwFtQRZ7cfVZMqZMunKmLlALFtGFabpI2G3cdOPIDeUnjY3r4bQFXVcU2loN4F0HNVtkpcqjgK0YMeleIi92H0eRGo026jBOha7WCFPbGHZznqD4N2RSeWAEWSnIvBnFKdRio_BYdsfJiEepyL1EkPAyqGZTqecFFZtIy9lwYJY5kH8bowznax2whfL-hr8gs5cfZx88knS8F3_EtxMDfg=w700)
I am wondering if that 198 lbs. in the manual is a typo. That's hardly enough for a big rider. The max load for XT250 is around 350 lbs. and for WR250R I think it's 390 lbs. or something. WRR has a pretty strong subframe though.
Here's a few pics of a homemade rack from advrider. Looks like he used those two threaded holes to mount a brake caliper guard.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m123/Livotlout/P9110003.jpg)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m123/Livotlout/P6260001.jpg)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m123/Livotlout/P6260004.jpg)
Here's the advrider link where I saw those pics.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ttr250-suitability-maximum-load.638827/ (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ttr250-suitability-maximum-load.638827/)
Yes, I think the quick link is on backwards. ;)
From Bogus's pictures you can see just how different the overseas subframe is,much heavier.
Look close at the mounting point behind the seat I think I felt that was the weak point with the cycle rack. If you just keep the weight on the rack down you will be fine.
How about green Chile adventure gear it's made for dirt bikes without racks
Quote from: NDirt Rider on April 27, 2016, 07:38:17 PM
How about green Chile adventure gear it's made for dirt bikes without racks
Those are kinda slick.
I always liked the "Cyclerack" on the T-dub because they were wide. When the bike fell the rack helped protect it more.
I know and if you have dry bags you are waterproof too and the way they work your exhaust heat shouldn't be a problem
I'm starting to sketch up my CycleRack knock off and analyzing the contact points on the bike. The lower points should be fine but was unsure how to connect behind/under the seat. As everyone stated earlier, the TTR overseas must have a much more robust subframe. There are only four contact points - 2 hold the rear fender on - 2 hold the seat on. To make removal of the seat easier, I replaced the 10 mm bolts with these. The 10mm bolts will then be moved down to the right side as mentioned earlier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1PxYl1eQjz0yoQXuKDBX3EDpjR4mlqSnhrWayQ9flAn8c0qcaYNqLLutXVZ2FIWqvwUQXi-AnXHzgsn0DbtoWxUigdeKlO8D4grhyrVWa0IhQOcDR-K9GHtRtMwTbhx-bD3i1h-vxXM4L_w_bwxMF3RqyGYkiQjXWm12WGRxqK4OGKSExEXqpSee0h0-bR0Ht1S-P4om9umdaTssohgtTJRvpZU_c83Umr7yDYLzlreoSTixziOfoiCTTvOoozOJPwt3L5cUil02xMTsky-82g8P6x5Tkq6oh_NRkXAHsQygpHZ_MwUQbJS3JT6Eywry3wshX88enLQLMC77e5rbyU5zNFROkdtOLSIozRMFvHitq4Z2pZWmM5vTD4y91SnzIYg_i6NNLN6eUHqUI-VtCEj34PGqJPFBaGtQA4y9XrENWZwbJsmuTzJjmy5RpdR0tfOavDb4DZ54QmQmFQ15AiFVCD2uimmjyOYckhxuCa8KlGqLYELOj3QdWqhrdbyXLBd3U8aXfNKTXwA0fCLMl1E7b7r8rPwd53id_9cN_ZpXLsNcigg6wLVqBUAAJwUAGwWy-g=w700)
I think this would be a good place to also attach the rear rack so that I don't have to drop the fender if I need/want to take the rack off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rf9YhZukslOSA3ltLyGduqAMm03Cm07qRm1mHJEzK4NL9jlO53XQ3xkhD9hN67VTlbw-zcvUQyyzHDVy7knyGmhkx9C0yAAtfFDVOTX8thzWOHsVWiyD0HqlIdQBEM1jFx8y6LvmCir5lv_cIZmzbAu6Nn0AEx_zvbn_hEa4TK7c5VkYVU7r-IxpG4fbjvOx7lRh-Y27OVmXT2PcrcVd0785vNko-7DzuzS-FXp1SJSk5kfOZH6nGJu_2-HM7reNlTKc8Bjc0k6kJku-R6LuOwHkRKD_DU8NoZHgte-xwdzZ_MHzRMV6q74f-Vcr5sJftubu--5X-m5OaFJWqKO8DeZQzbatU2GKRGW2YQFSAGJwO2UzvdGe27c_1lA5zvKrRZ1rOnmeb-cqxqjfl74yllCs5YEi9ErHsM1XbNmiEIK3siBKAtvRvle0DTBZqr1TG3-Vle3PmZhPscUhP3urAq--Wg3Y8CoFaABfP85Y2l4665WwENuH8W8cGmgcJYSm65qzWJvNQatbeKj01bF1ZnJDbPMA20WgWb1iltOu42t_E-86FR9CD0UQc2Qr-66HFaddUg=w700)
Any problems with that line of thinking? Either way the seat would have to come off, this would save me a step.
Threw a little bit of plate on the back of the bike yesterday to see how it looks. The RotoPax will sit in the middle and a dry bag on top of that. It seems really wide but it's smaller than other racks. Used a little bit of conduit to figure out what the bends are going to be for the bottom supports. Then the conduit will get transferred to 1" pipe. All the guys in the shop have is 1" pipe so I'm a bit concerned the pipe is going to be too big. The edges and corners will all get rounded off, I don't want to get sliced up when throwing my leg over the bike.
Any thoughts?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PPqbdP6DGcUdHXLY9rBo4vQ9KJVngEGjXBzlbm3sLBsqQdG5zLUn8Ah8jPK-cPGZZ4kBRZSnfVj4l1oGIqtHb-_nRNmerSplX45sHzFlBTbDC0E-kP_szw7LQYHCmFD7b8PkztaN5__e4QaROHnSwiwbr9iE__ZWkB8oYaNf9fVfXvkwsXSNSDb_fkfzu5qQ9CWC25-WbDotlpBZ_NWtSVf5Xp7VOMmn7bNHPjhlIY-0Gc3PPWYu2ZZhHJWBw-PV86byBsA7jUX9ru9sqQ4Qu3e-XHENAo6FQ8xSe9AQsvRuxR0cj6O7yEWd6L7H6IHp8M_LB-nwOWfG6KzKoZVc3GZWzrVTmiGLOLFRjKkCGrSkR4aJ2z0KHYt4jQw600KOCm2RUF1iNYleG24QfRCeBc9zq4viAW__pn7HgCBdIxOlBmTQdvyMOnU19419AP6v2iqrMc0A0_3Pz-9u8NbMRS91KX5agKS9yyoxWHhibiyKrm6-KPLq8Rkambpl6Q4yoih2xp77R52q_sPGGyK9tgHa1egJumJdpK8lEDdHsG6vWA1fK_KnvhYSSFh5a1wxGyBk4GL9QG0ZX0DNzWgwv7f_JI-Ex2Wn=w700)
I think I would round those corners. Otherwise looks good.
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Here's version 2.0
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ay0j4Kro0JJwwihWsQY5H7epUI8Uiw6nG3qeHnNWTN9MUUGNKyB1561Y2lp7S8m7srpE_Sne3vGOWolud4Cz48j9QiXNOKEcQS4NsefqiHbY24zSbaQUzzElFVd6ofKjC-elb9dD3gtIMD0os6J21Q7bbtX-tBa9rUJrPGj_Y5Ol0mO0VbxMdAAyzSmUSzO71665O85kraGGb6LHwgz-u7jM6-AWKO7raB04CsWWt61Ax-xPT2y945zg7Nme--uF7-2PlUW-ftIYjjUk35GoMc0orOx-3Fgyo4vLlbTWl740UFIFxu121nGo8mvtapfHSmR50QrO6NUSERywupbghtVcfKqHCXZUEMHOR0WOthZEqe-ZiEo6J7J3yfS7-0ipsV256uKSnh5mzpK9Y6KsKNqm1qo8tDyXWGYUAVWZENDiqsgt9ugYxQqYxy0wdBexwioftP2iF6ZXqzlyuvRRXlzzOkbJ3iuyxcQ5wOv51PqjyroSUd_q0JdQDGAKxdkZ1ushwsL0UK2pNxdrPIg_NYhJVxjrJBCBbtrvRN90c26n3ZVB4TDmb3SkY61N2io_u0eX4GL_zx1NsIPx276myIQmb0UQv2Ij=w700)
Nice work!
Drops to the frame... The first pic looks like it's really wavy but it's just how it kicks out to the width of the top plate.
Any thoughts?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1vuaezyJyq1MJZz37yqhxooJSTyjNLgxiyr1K00137jJy7sTqkmPufGh0uiXJ6ucR1dTfJpCRSobo3rXldbC3suZlo7ae4RbwL8rFWJTx0hKkvcFeG2XEvZ9oUKPAsnjmaBdKwF9ik4wLedtkz4FLJAMPTKSZwoi0ZWPtegMtY4Xjyw0-buEGID8vYGOGGa39ixVYAb6k6-tGo-UVb8gytR_zL63QPsaKZ7GSankWyrcdg0f2v5YjyNDlmyUsNZD6jds9gGhE5eYeBgV7GytE5UyfOq8l36bJk7kjOnFG7nMb0nGBUL1M-3ohwS0C--ZdW_e0xkKmtNq_8AjUxPx_ipBFSCjjI_NpojKZ323CNzU8zRFODZLwnEbfGcazogUhzBnPH711BW6sI547Clx9DJk33f6WCcvxbpVF59sKhQV_qGkFUMBTZC1mj5wY9mfwrdsNUpb9grTkk5qZ2iwnbtn0leq-dO5z1n8HXTlLjv-_FW6TK5RUh3Q0lGn65ri9FS7J8m5k_bpcBNkBF1S-DIKb5-a1PCZvfycPmPl6phxCHk4vNEI93TNUzPd0XP33T320se0dvALiKQHaYGfvjusrykE99yn=w700)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZMP3JyxET_jpEOVI19IWuw5DWmMuobMQZNN6fMLQAp32CDVi7eESKpUQpeS3CmbUS9VDo2583oCRuPS8BrePtkylxu6VSgtheR79tVSG8B4qXERmAcdeIWj2KkXkmBozUKbXwNaU9xerGrXhN62Sv8miE49520EmcJ-rHAxlW4XUBBeEXNKuKvvHfdJ2Y64sshj5B7ZmxoPG0_oLqyTjFn90_JK5K8b5xy6faXt-0k9E7Cpdn1_ffI3kQTBaSjYL1tZ7wZpp3IfaIpGnlp-WYB2f_vx3pd9GPIW-wq3Tax4wsJ6zSLikYsAxERpEa4PaYiJ3KuNCI_WSPxmHnX3woqK2rlh24JT_Fs_vNzgxXxdwapX9Iz1ATXR-KuvxmIpUo3CQjGVxCo-XF679glKXcUbMwRgfvuD4zp_AGXEnniJP4edm2CYFazzNgPTD4FQjQlrZrUJELWNkyul6vALwtDOJjg4QHwL_Ag3qs9O65fL6QHwZla2TBLydwtokBifFmmnugtreXIXN3E7C1nx9oNZXI_Dd89OTXZLEDD371RTzmh8tKcpv9KB_z68q6knC01i53SKhtda40s-TQgxe61svdDw0A-Au=w700)
Wow! That's looking really nice!
I think Brockmub is my new best friend.
That rack is looking good! Do you have a laser table in your shop?
Sent from my TRS-80
Beats the crap out of my round bar special. That thing looks factory!
Rounding off the corners really transforms it and won't hurt so bad if it lands on you.
Nice work.
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As per usual the pictures look way better than it actually is. There are already some things I would do differently (as with most projects). The right side is way too close to the plastics. I'd probably use a size smaller tubing and also wrap the tubing around the back.
I work at a career and technical high school in SF so I'm cashing in one of the favors the welding department owes me. So I can't start making everyone on the forum their own custom rear racks. Hopefully it gets finished up today, with cleaning up all the edges, then I'll degrease all the metal and figure out what to spray it with. Are there any suggestions on what type of paint would work best with something like this? I'll probably go with black in color.
Going with automotive paint usually is best, but a rack gets scratched up anyway, I'd just rattle-can it. Does your school have an auto body shop?
Also Rhino lining works really well. I had a cycle racks rhino lined and it never scratched. But that puts the costs up again 40 to 50 bucks.
You could try the rhino stuff you can buy in a can and put on yourself. That rhino goop hides a lot of mistakes.
Sure looks good.
I've used this for bumpers and sliders on my 4 runner. It holds up very well. Very durable I comes out a dark gray color
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-1-qt-Black-Hammered-Rust-Preventive-Paint-Case-of-2-7215502/202058539?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D24-Paint%7c&gclid=Cj0KEQjw09C5BRDy972s6q2y4egBEiQA5_guv0eGtkxw5hS5nPGDsflwAhKzRaqPOne_Zf9KtzeIVV0aAnqr8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I'd get it powder coated. Its usually pretty cheap, will look nice, and will be 10x as durable as any paint.
I'd guess there is a powder coater within driving range. Watertown has 2 big powder coaters, with one being right across the street from me right now. We used to do liquid painting on all of our equipment but gave up that nasty habit for powder coating.
I know there is a powder coater in Tea that has a pretty good rep.
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Right now powder coating doesn't seem like the way I want to go. Maybe on my next project I'll have it done. It is primed though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BeGOnk49HxwQ_Yx_pTpVRqyq3daeEcoD4CwfSeISFmWI246zEUYWlO70iIffsy8oyiEnLl_RV5rTfCtE3pVo9qcsrv1Uyeoz53hDTSnmOo6gVUcEoQ8NUc8Cn-BgnL1USyC0YGLJCLJlgvylMUCa92AUHjW6OF4IrFqFpo2RS0Me1S1eegm3HUwUu4KktD1hEEJ7kG9_oWiylvwp9xDJ8sfQjWMZGIPefIhkVio6gypqoGOYGZu1I1zuSe8GZp0q1a1UN4BPpiMTtoXzR0cVpSym1crQ8auDAy7MPZCsTXIG5OTuD6b0mLR8dI36qoVj6jSAgHVsURZe2LFgQ-kG1NqQOv_I0t20pNu4kuV0b4ZehJhPk3Fja15NG71Ms7whFsviAaCHGNEEV8c2cuOHVs5BzM1fwDsbnPBW3mLU_7LSxXxjk8jJO13bT3OZKwNB-c3orNr4BBPI8SKh8RqoWMV07qK7D6cFvPV4wSPj_v8DJxcOgNaP1wk0Lml50Ipef5S26DqgSxnXdeVVQY9R2kLUzvmVPaAVHrQHNZTaBqFTlVWEh5CqXhrRRwc4HHeM3nejr-Uhwsce1UMgMc2fbcADMDkcNP8x=w500)
👍 lookin good.
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Mounted the rack last night and did some preliminary checks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/obNLis0YjmKITB8UTGivlDP2euWP0c4KRpg61tlO9oE3bHkx--KWHZJt0dya_c8g6E_EekEgbA363dnhQEICRX17ICTU-Br7tE5l5kAeLBl-TaxvUwS9vz459DjXhWpl1xTXJ3TMCO9cQAh8hXGjffcFqVm3x365rglgaITZI7FKiBgKCONve_d0ejhv_O8kcXQ-pOrrsboOLAm0xTgC9jJf-TI06fwl-Bvj2r5fyHRHvO4ixBOR1K1tCZqApSb7eaZH-A-c8kZYJp19i6LevwnvW5h9D5zJfNv48i1Wyh9l9refzygYajw3Qy5851Vf4BqIFaNr5h94vMmHptW5Z-HRewIJlm3BXw6-E-dhSM_f-v4NIoC_UTN5ngjFtu2QwcHcnrvRhxUwwP9xAIv3HFIb2O32mhcFfWFsGy5qVPiJYxNnmxpZXNgrwiSzyhKU6N2_V2o2P15pfHwLOD7gQUf13Hz0ROIyEAyRKculctbgN3env6yQdEspLRXIUyBhxUJapJIB8H9erSgLjkKm8FVVciOaoTqP5NYNZzK-vqYD2T0GeZdQN3FcjamSWiCeWxiBas0EAISAlAUx2X11VSYIJY6IiVvS=w500)
Here's a couple of things I've learned, some of this is common sense but I lack in that department sometimes.
1. Don't assume that people know what you want without explicitly saying so. - As you can see from the picture of the rack in primer, the bottom attachment points mount horizontally instead of vertically. The attachment points now have some clearance issues when mounting the rack. Speaking of clearance issues....
2. Make sure to give yourself enough clearance for your bodywork. - There is a little bit of rubbing on the right side. What started out as about 1/4" of space, disappeared later as the rack too the rest of it's shape. I would say that at least a 1/2" of space between a rack and body panels should be the minimum.
3. Get the ideas of the rack shape and locations on the bike, but remove it from the bike to do the welding. - There is one spot that a piece of slag melted the rear fender, thankfully it is covered up by my seat.
4. Test fit, test fit, test fit - Tack weld something then test fit again. Cut something, then test fit again. Always test your work and then prepared to do it all over again.
5. Don't hesitate to do things over - There were several designs of the rear rack that we just threw in the bin. That was really good. Then we got impatient and started saying, "Meh, that's good enough." I regret that.
6. Use connection/mounting hardware that is similar to what your bike uses - The TTR uses a lot of 10mm and 12mm nuts. This rack uses 15mm for the bottom mounts and I think 11mm for the RotoPax mount. Now it requires extra tools to remove the rack than what would normally be carried on the bike.
It's been a fun little project, I'd definitely do things differently if I had to do it all over again. I've learned a lot and plan on doing other things like this again in the future.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AiqRo4WE5mJXNyV6BeqeSq5dDBc_KTsbw-3m6Rw5-W0ASZ-ytdBlUnBf-GHIKYRIA0DnayS4E4EbFdtLhUJremPxYfWkcOl_UvU4HuF1Px2mNs-aWptez9qbrmR1Pn6Y3LE39JbRIBtGdsicy0mbmRi8qXsN640brMY6K9-2sErD3l73n5bcXrj1IzgqG31dQt2AX2cYz_mBpd9ZrtKAodHGE-N2SUG_V2xmHpcLdfdxtzdnSotWF4R2PMb9purih9RpGMKLdtO_P3zX5HHPS21LwmxJ7XYJzzQRP2MH3i2kpIZsz1wyoHFFm2RW89GsyD5gFVsbKIvEasP3wBbBRX7JwUQ3nFVXC9mvWWCNwjUKx3tkraGSrHNUP8lPKu444Y8YBigMXCPiBZvXhluq7ABLbz85pRSqmBDmf2JOEOIGMn2MIlNW1p21VBe8ldrh9c7werk1mU5enMLTWM4nmGNcLCpqLGHTazfStbW8uobM9tlVBTqxtj99ifxyc8crXFU3q06EdobZWCEPT1iG94DthvPD5TNVN26s0DzUCRv5jw0guDDGgXL2sJS0-X71TCWzsap_RGplJkWwM4XipOGpqEsbmnky=w700)
That rack turned out great! Looks like you could start a small production run of those.
I think it looks great.
Yep very nice. Doesn't look homemade, which is generally a good thing.
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