I want to go tubeless.....

[greatbuffalo]

I've been hunting around for some info on going tubeless on KLR. I think a few of you have done this to your WRRs.

What system have you all used? I looked at the TUbliss system system but they don't have a 17" kit for the rear.

Has anyone tried the DIY approach? My concern, and the reason why I like the TUbliss system, is the bead clamp. I wonder, if I went the DIY route for the rear, would I have any problems with the wheel staying on the rim?

Thanks for any input and suggestions

[Lonesome Dave]

First off, I only know TUbliss.  I did put them on the WRR and like them.  BUT, if your going on a 5 day ride and have no available air between days, you might have a problem.  If you expect a smooth no shimmy ride on asphalt, you might have a problem.

When I first installed them, I had air leaking on the rear, but not the front.  I eventually put "slime" in to fix it (both tires).  Rosco told me he always puts the slime in.  I did have a flat last year and it all worked well.  Still have the plug in.  I also had to add weights opposite of the bead clamp to smooth out the front tire.  The vibration is still there, but only slight.  In the dirt, you never notice before or after the weights were added.  The part I really like is the "un-sprung" weight difference.  The giro effect of a much lighter rotating mass (mainly the heavy tube) allows for quicker turns and a lot less effort.   I read a review from a guy who rides better and harder than I would or could, and he liked them mainly because of the easy of turning or un-sprung weight.

Would I buy another set, not sure, depends on how much road I was going to ride.  On a larger dual sport road worthy bike, NO.
That's my 2 cents worth! 

[greatbuffalo]

Thanks for your prospective Dave. You bring up some things that I was wondering about.

I have looked at the guys that use silicone and other sealers and most have had good results going in this direction. Does anyone have any first hand, or close second hand experience?

IFI decide to do this I would make sure to pack a spare tube for that "just in case" moment.

The TUbliss system is impressive as it has the inner bladder to take the shots that would bend the wheel ir pinch the tube. I did think that balance would be an issue.

[Lonesome Dave]

Here's another pennies worth.  Today, I finally put my WR back together.  I had the swing arm out and was putting new sprockets on in hopes of stopping the excessive wear on the chain slider (14t & 53t).  After everything was complete, before riding it, I checked the air pressure in the tires.  The high side (100psi) had only dropped a few pounds over the winter.  The low side (less than 10psi) was actually good.  So maybe a 5 day trip would be okay.  The manufacture and Rosco both advise to check your air every time you ride.

And, one more thing!  The balance of the wheels.  Last year I found a deal on a "Handy" static wheel balancer in Colo.  I put the rear wheel on it today, and even with the weights that I've already added, the bead lock area drops to the bottom in a hurry.  So I still need more weight. 

[greatbuffalo]

Thanks Dave. Still would like to here from someone who has first hand with the DIY mod.

Anyone.....anyone?

[Bogus Jim]

BUT, if your going on a 5 day ride and have no available air between days, you might have a problem.

Dave you could carry a road bicycle pump like the one below. It's good for 160 psi. Just a few inches longer than the mini-pumps for mountain bikes.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Mini-Morph-Bike-Pump/dp/B000FICCQC


Good luck with the tubeless Dan, haven't tried it myself but there's definitely a lot of adv threads on the topic.

[Bogus Jim]

Here's a method I haven't seen before, he just seals the individual spokes instead of filling the whole rim drop center with sealant. Claims to have 110,000 miles using this method.

http://cyb.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM/Tubeless/i-mT2KWZM

[greatbuffalo]

I saw another guy doing a similar thing. The problem here though is if you had to tighten spokes, you'd have to go in and redo it. It would make it easier to balance, I'm sure.

[Bogus Jim]

True, but if you develop a leak you only have to fix the spoke that's leaking. With the other method you'd have to rip out all the sealant from the drop center and start over. No perfect method I guess.

Maybe in a few months you can tell us what NOT to do.   

[Hank]

I guess it works fine, but I view the individual seal method as 32 (+/-) potential failure points.    I'd have to pass on that. 

Guzzis have individual seals on the spokes on some models and it supposed to be very reliable.

[Bogus Jim]

I wonder if the Guzzis use Alpina rims? They have an o-ring on each spoke nipple. You can buy conversion kits but you have to use Alpina rims so it is pricey.

http://alpinawheelsusa.com/products/motorbike-tubeless-kit-conversion/

[greatbuffalo]

The rear on my Tiger is tubeless and the front is supposed to be. I thought they came standard that way but I have been told differently by those that I consider smarter than me. The next time I take them apart, I have to take a very close look. My front does not hold air and has a tube. It took about an hour for it to go flat. I had the tires changed at a shop but next time I think I'll do it has a look at what the system is. That may have to wait til next year as my K60 Scouts are wearing very well.

[sprout]

 I tried the sealant method shown on smug-mug. Put it toghther and 3 leaked. Cleaned them and resealed. Found a couple more leaking.... stuck a tube in because I's leaving on a trip. I think tubless is a great idea. Pluging is much quicker and breaking down a tire on an F800 is a real SOB.

sprout

[Lonesome Dave]

Sprout your still around!  Are you going to make it for the summer rally next month?

[greatbuffalo]

I'd like to see you too Sprout but no injuries that next time you grace us with your presence, please.