Electrical Help-KTM 530 xcw

[Hank]

No, all the lighting circuits ARE AC, that much I know for sure.    The yellow wire in the harness is AC.   KTM is a little unique in that manner.
The RR does convert a portion to DC for recharging the battery, and then a few items as listed above run directly off the battery.

Lots of places you'll see its referred to as a "split system", and some read like the stator itself is producing both AC and DC, then coupled with the fact that KTM calls the R/R a "regulator", I misunderstood and thought maybe the stator was producing both, which wouldn't be possible unless it had a rectifier on board.    The schematic shows that's not the case though, as there is no direct connection from the stator to the 12V DC leg.. and I understand it now.

So its split, but only in that a portion of the AC is not rectified, for the lights and the CDI.   You can see that in the schematic below.
The rest is rectified to DC and connects to the battery and the fan, speedo, and starter button and relay.

[Hank]

There is a fairly popular mod out there to convert everything to DC.. I personally don't see the point for my use though.

[Hank]

This is the entire schematic with my notes.

[Bogus Jim]

I misunderstood and thought maybe the stator was producing both, which wouldn't be possible unless it had a rectifier on board.

Or a commutator... like the DC generators on old vehicles. 

I tend to agree with Hank, R/R is the next likely suspect. There should be two plugs on the R/R, one to the battery and one to the stator; I'd unplug the one to the battery and measure the current before/after unplugging it.

I think it's a long shot, but it's also possible the fan switch is "sticking". So when Rob first measured the current drop, the switch was leaking but then he came back the next night to measure resistance and in the meantime the switch popped open. So might be worth repeating that test and tap the switch body with a wrench or something.

[Hank]

I think it's a long shot, but it's also possible the fan switch is "sticking". So when Rob first measured the current drop, the switch was leaking but then he came back the next night to measure resistance and in the meantime the switch popped open. So might be worth repeating that test and tap the switch body with a wrench or something.

Ah, good point.  Rob even mentioned that his fan did stick on once.. so maybe it is a bit sticky.

[Hank]

..

The rectifier was changed when I did the AC/DC conversion. Still have the drain, before and after.
..

I just noticed this statement.   So you converted the whole thing to DC?
That probably adds more potential current leaks.. but I guess I'd still suspect the R/R

[Robmicgrn]

I am currently working out of town. Hopefully, soon, I will get back home and be able to dig into this some more.

I converted the whole bike to DC. http://www.trailtech.net/stators-flywheels/ktm-stator-kits/ktm-4-stroke/sr-8310 it was plug and play, easy enough for me to do it. I wanted the higher watt stator (dead battery issue) and the Baja Designs LED runs on DC. I at one point thought the stock stator was bad as well. Obviously I still have the problem.

I really appreciate the input guys  .

Stay tuned!