22 cent mod and slide drilling

[fringefan]

So do you loose the extra HP when the pink is removed? Did not think you had any left with that atrocious IMS tank you have.

[loingrader]

i actually did lose a little when i removed the pink "KLR" lettering when the factory tank came off.  i'm not sure if it was an actual horsepower loss, but it definitely felt a little slower.  i almost put the rusty factory tank back on for that exact reason (and the simple fact that the aesthetics of the bike suffered immensely).  those kawasaki engineers knew what they were doing when they designed that bike.  EVERYTHING affects the way the bike performs. 

fortunately there is still the pink "650" on the side covers, and they are very glossy and shiny (which is almost as important as the color).  if it weren't for those, you guys would be leaving me in the dust.

[LittleJacket]

Mine is green and black!  My bike is the fastest KLR on the planet!  It's only slower because it's hauling a "husky" boy like myself!  I'll let you give my wife shit, just don't talk trash about my KLR or my dog for that matter!  It's fast damnit, fast! 

[Dr Psyko]

Don't own a KLR (yet) but know a little about this topic. OEM carbs are almost always set on the lean side (and tuned to the restrictive exhaust and intake) to lower emissions, maximize mileage, and run better in lower elevations (75% of motorcycles are sold on either coast). For us this results in hard starting, long warm ups, and possible overheating when finally warm on hot days. Most bikes run better here in the heartland if they are "fattened". This is particularily true if you do any exhaust work (or intake or both). The dynojet kits are usually spot on in the recommendations. Raising the needle and drilling the slide will help in lower rpm ranges, but will tend to leave a flat spot in the mid to upper range. Better to leave the needle (or replace with a more rounded taper), drill the slide and raise the main jet. IMHO!!! Warning, this will reduce mileage a bit.

[loingrader]

Warning, this will reduce mileage a bit.

ryan figured that out on his first road trip after he did the mod.  he had to do the klr lay over trick to get enough fuel to make it to the next stop.  he thought he had plenty of fuel left.  after seeing that, i don't mind my bike running lean.  if i want more horsepower, smoother running, etc, i'll just hop on the blackbird. 

another thing to consider is that if a bike is richened up at low altitudes and then driven up where there is some elevation (like colorado) it will be running very rich because of the extra fuel and decrease in oxygen. 

i'm just trying to justify to myself why i should just leave my klr alone, even though a lighter exhaust and some carb tinkering would be fun!

[Hank]

Ryan did find after that first trip to the hills that he had the wrong sized washer under the needle too, so it was running REALLY rich.
You should still got low-mod 40s with the .22 mod from what I've seen.  I think he was getting about 25

[Dustin]

I have done both the .22 cent mod and slide drilling. I get 43-48 MPG with my big ass riding it. It has helped a ton with cold starting and overall performance. I did multiple plug chops after shimming the needle and found it was just about the perfect amount. I was a litte conservitve and used two thinner washers. After doing the chop I think I could have done the full amount and still been mint.

[LittleJacket]

not sure if I mentioned this, but last summer i did finally figure out what I did wrong with that .22 cent mod.  The mistake I made was accidentally using stainless steel washers which were just a little too large in diameter not to mention the wrong material.  The right way to do it is to use brass washers which are the proper material and diameter.  I have to say, my .22 cent mod was a real pain in the ass and yes, I did run out of gas in the middle of nowhere SD.  So, remember-don't do what I do-do it right!