Just Had To Do It.

[OOFDA]

I have always had an oil burning issue with my early build (5-07) KLR. I installed the Thermo Bob, Mercedes PCV valve, routed the cc vent to atmosphere and changed to a 16t sprocket for highway use. All of this helped but did not solve the oil usage issue. In 07 Kawasaki moved their plant to Thailand and I heard of some machining and quality control issues. I also found that the new low drag oil control ring rails were too thin and chattered at higher rpm.
Last week I took the top end off and here is what I found. The piston showed an excessive amount of carbon for so few miles. The cylinder showed the start of a groove where the oil ring reverses direction at the top of the stroke (chatter). The cylinder was .0027 out of round and the piston had .0023 excessive skirt clearance. What was really disturbing was the oil ring had very little tension, the top two rings were fine. I talked to my Kawasaki dealer about an oversize piston thinking I would bore it and use Hastings rings which have been working for others. He said Kaw did not offer an oversize piston??? I ordered a Schnitz 685 kit and will bore the cylinder to match. I also bought a Dynojet kit to modify the carb so I have the capability to tune the engine.
I explained my findings to the dealer and offered to show him the parts but he said he wasn't aware of any oil usage issues and mine must be out of the norm. Since I bought my bike used with 451 miles on it I no longer had a warranty.  You can draw your own conclusions but mine are, poor workmanship, poor quality and (in my case) a poor dealership.

OOFDA

[loingrader]

most dealerships these days pretty much suck.  you weren't accusing, you weren't demanding, you just wanted to share info.  props to you.

you took a problem that would chapp my a$$ and turned it into good (and extra few cc's displacement).

hope you really enjoy the new top end and that it gives you many thousands of happy (non oil consuming) miles!

[Dr Psyko]

Thanks for the info. As a 07 owner, interested in your progress and the 685 kit in general. I have to say I havn't had any oil issues to date but continue to watch.

[jacin theis]

how much are the parts and labor going to cost for this upgrade Oofda? 

[OOFDA]

If your bike is titled as an 07 you shouldn't have any problems account the engine changes began with the 08's and thats when the oil usage started, not before.

The 685 kit from Schnitz cost me $305. That includes the overbore kit, head gasket (cometic) is extra and freight. I will bore it myself but would normally cost about $60. So, the complete project will be $365. I am not going to do any head work other than vacume check the valves and cleanup. I have heard the 685 has less vibration than stock. Really didn't have much before but less would be better. The carb kit cost me $70 but I think could be gotten cheaper if you shopped around. Beware though, after market kits are being sold so make sure you get the good one. Also, there is a guy selling the same kit and will exchange your cylinder for one bored to fit. I checked his price for boring and feel he is much too high.
My opinion only!
I like everything about my KLR and after a new top end it should run many miles trouble free. OH, I also replaced the balancer chain tightner (doohickey) spring. The original spring was too long and doing nothing. At the moment the kit is on backorder and should be shipped the end of the month. If you want I can give you my impression after I get it together and tuned.

OOFDA

Sorry - you asked about labor. I do my own work so I couldn't tell you. With a little mechanical experience and a shop manual rebuilding the top end isn't too tough. Promise your buddies Steaks and Beer, preferably after the engine is assembled, not during.

[plumber mike]

Do you have your own machine shop?

[OOFDA]

I have a lathe, mill and other tooling. I don't have a business per say but do it as a hobby. I also do some metal fabrication. I can't say it is a full blown machine shop and I buy tooling as the need arises. I kid my wife that if I pass on first she will have a yard sale and someone will pick up a lathe for $28 and a mill for $32. I mainly do work for myself and friends, no charge. At present I am building a tilt steering wheel assy for a friends 1939 Ford standard car. So far his cost is 2 "T" bones and a 12 pack of Bud Lite. I also do some work for another friend who is building a chopper. It all works out in the end. I have always admired craftsmen in the plumbing and sheetmetal trade. A good metal fabricator is a pleasure to watch. Like Jesse James the chopper builder.

OOFDA

[Hank]

I'm anxious to hear how you like it.  I've read a lot of good stuff about the 685 and 705 kits.

[loingrader]

I'm anxious to hear how you like it.  I've read a lot of good stuff about the 685 and 705 kits.

1+   

[OOFDA]

Looking Good!!  The engine is back together and has about 150 miles on it. Still in break in mode but here are some observations. I was really impressed with the JE piston in the Schnitz kit. A little lighter than stock, shorter skirt, and coated. The rings seem to be high quality with the oil ring rails .003 thicker than stock. The oil drain and pin oiling holes are much larger and the pin is also coated. The circlips were a bear to install as they are much heavier duty than stock. I bored the cylinder and honed it with 320 grit stones to give the piston .0025 clearance and filed the rings for .022 end gap. No problems assembling the engine, had to heat the piston to get the pin in.

The engine is definately quieter than before and less vibration. Didn't have a vibration issue anyway. Can't comment on power as yet, haven't really wrung it out. Schnitz has a pretty intense break in procedure. Probably due to the 320 cross hatch. Will definately carry enough oil.

Just waiting for the weather then I can get more miles. Very impressed with the material and instructions with the Schnitz kit. I had a question about one operation so I called Ryan Schnitz and he explained why it was done that way. Try that with most other companies.

I also installed a Dyno jet stage 1 carb kit so I can tune the engine after break in.

FOR SALE -  One slightly used KLR 650 piston with rings. NO RUST, has been constantly oiled inside and out. 1/8 inch carbon coated crown included.
OOFDA