Gas Gas EC200 Rebuild

[greatbuffalo]

Smart move on replacing it all. I had it when I try to save a few bucks and order just I THINK I need. Just to get into it and you have to order more parts.

[Osnabrock]

I'm still waiting on the linkage bearings that I need to get on with the next step of the process.  I thought I'd spend some time seeing if I could brighten up the bodywork a bit.  I found a product the is supposed to restore plastics to "their original shine".  I'm not much for keeping my bike too shiny but I thought I'd try it out just because when you bike a new-to-you bike, you want it to look close to new.
Here's a photo of the before and after. 
Hopefully you can see the difference. 

[Bogus Jim]

Plastic surgery!      Do it once a year, like Joan Rivers.

[Osnabrock]

Funny. 
I was not thinking that plastic rehab would turn out.  I put a few more coats of the restorer on today and it sure shines.  A person could spend quite a lot of time sanding out scratches.  I just wanted to take care of the worst of them.  I've averaged about 30 minutes of sanding per side cover and did it while I was watching TV so it went pretty quick.
Today I repacked my silencer.  I've repacked my KLR and DRZ silencers each a few times.  Their packing was just a bit grey  but the Gassers packing was pretty saturated with oil, as one would expect with a two stroke.  When I bought the bike there was oil dripping from the end cone of the muffler. 
The new packing sure seemed like alot of material to get into the housing.  Where as the four stroke packing that I've installed came as a matt that you just wrapped around the silencer core, this was like loose batting with no shape at all.  I just had to lay it out and wrap it around the core, using masking tape to hold it in shape.  This was the method suggested by the instructions that came with the packing.  Usually I'd use fiber tape generally used for taping drywall instead of the masking tape.  It all went in pretty easily.  I sealed the end with high temp silicone and put it aside to cure.

[Osnabrock]

I also replaced the breather hoses of my carb.  The old ones were dry and discolored.  This will just make things look a little better.

[Osnabrock]

I received my linkage bearings in the mail yesterday and found time to press them in tonight.  There wasn't anything to difficult about it, just the opposite of their removal.  I packed the bearings last night and threw them in the fridge so they'd contract and make their install easier.  I pressed a few in with my bench vice and a few were installed with a common C-clamp.  I actually preferred doing it with the C-clamp as it made the final placement more accurate.  A person needs to ensure that they are pressed in to the proper depth to allow room for the seals to be positioned correctly.
I also used emery cloth to take any of the corrosion on the bolts before coating them with waterproof grease and installing them.  I also made sure to use anti-seize on all the bolts/nuts.
I got everything reassembled and now need to torque everything to spec.   
You'll also notice that I got the expansion chamber reinstalled and that my basement needs organization.

[Osnabrock]

As I was going through the box of parts that came with my bike, I found a part that you wouldn't usually find installed on a two-stroke bike. 
Any guesses as to what purpose it serves?

[Fletch]

As I was going through the box of parts that came with my bike, I found a part that you wouldn't usually find installed on a two-stroke bike. 
Any guesses as to what purpose it serves?

looks like the temp sensor on my KTM? not a usaul thing on a 2 stroke, but nice in the tight stuff

[Hank]

I think it's a rear brake light switch.

[Osnabrock]

You are right Hank.
The bike came with a the pressure sensor for the rear master cylinder.  I was going to purchase one in an attempt to license it here in MN.  There it was in the box of stuff that came with the bike.
There's also speedometer and a few other bits of wiring that I have yet to sort out.

[Osnabrock]

Tonight I torqued all my linkage and swingarm bolts/nuts, installed the Ohlins, and installed the airbox/subframe.  Once again, I made sure that everything was greased and anti-seized.
The airbox and carb were a little tough to get mounted up just right.  I spent a little time tweaking things until I got things just right.  On every bike I've worked on, this part of the project is by far the most difficult.  If everything isn't "just right" they just don't go back together as they should. 
I also got a new supply line run from my rear brake cylinder to the reservoir.  The old one was showing some wear and it was cheap to replace so I thought it prudent.  The new line seemed a little shorter than the old one.  I may have to reroute it.
I've been eager to get the subframe on so I could start with the routing of the wires to receive the new taillight.  I may look into ordering turn signals as well, so I want to get everything in order to receive them once the time comes. 

[Osnabrock]

I spent the little time I had today installing the new stainless brake line from the rear master cylinder to the caliper today.  I also replaced the two o-rings in the caliper, just to insure that everything is as it should be.  The rear brake was not working as it should have when I bought the bike.  I've replaced or rebuild everything I can shy of the master cylinder.  Hopefully this will solve the problem.  I figure that it was the gummed up caliper piston that was causing the problem.  Also, the brakes on these bikes are notoriously difficult to bleed apparently.  I don't know why it would be any more difficult than any other bike but that could have been the problem as well.
I got the rear fender and tail light on as well so the bike is starting to look like a bike again. 
I need to start working on the electrical now.  I need to make sure that all the wires are where they should be and that they aren't rubbing on anything before I install the tank.
I also need to get the rear wheel back on, perhaps after replacing the bearings.
Does anyone know what common tolerance levels are for the thickness of brake disks on a bike?  I haven't had much luck finding anything about this in the manual or online.

[Bogus Jim]

Does anyone know what common tolerance levels are for the thickness of brake disks on a bike?

On my bike - front: 3.5mm spec, 3.0mm limit, 0.15 deflection limit
rear: 4.0mm spec, 3.5mm limit, 0.15mm deflection limit

[Osnabrock]

I haven't found time to work on the bike too much during the last few weeks.  Most of the major work, that I intend to do, has been done.  I may still replace the front and rear wheel bearings before the Spring comes. 
I was pretty eager to get the bike back together, as the weather has been pretty nice here and my buddy and I have been visiting about getting out for a trail ride while the weathers still around freezing.  There's also an indoor track in the metro area that I may visit to keep the skills and fitness up. 
Here's a photo of the bike as it sits tonight.  I found some plastics on Ebay and a seat cover to match from the local dealer just to make it pretty. 
There are still things that I plan on doing before the Spring season starts.  I'll keep posting as they come along.  Most notable will be a trip to the DMV to get a plate for it.

[torgo]

Have you made it to the DMV?  Wonder how that will go.

I have a plated KDX200 I plan on taking to MOAB or the Hills this year.